Sanborns’ La Casa de los Azulejos: The Jewel of Mexico City’s Historic Center
Journey through centuries of Mexican history, culture, and opulence inside Mexico City’s iconic ‘House of Tiles’.
Sanborns’ Casa de los Azulejos: A Living Masterpiece in Mexico City
Rising gloriously in the historic heart of Mexico City, La Casa de los Azulejos—the House of Tiles—is much more than a building. Equal parts architectural marvel, historic palace, and culinary icon, this 18th-century gem beckons travelers and locals alike to step inside and experience the living history of Mexico through its shimmering tilework, soaring columns, and grand courtyards.
Contents
- A Storied History: From Noble Residence to Modern Landmark
- Baroque Splendor: Architecture and Design
- The Mystery and Beauty of Puebla Tiles
- Artistry Within: Orozco, Pacologue, and Mural Heritage
- Sanborns: The Birth of a Mexican Institution
- Experiencing La Casa Today
- Surroundings: The Soulful Streets of the Historic Center
- Frequently Asked Questions
A Storied History: From Noble Residence to Modern Landmark
La Casa de los Azulejos is rooted in the storied legacy of the Counts of the Valley of Orizaba. These noble families traced their lineage to the earliest Spanish settlers. Their desire for permanence was matched by their taste for European elegance, which shaped the trajectory of this legendary site.
- Origins in the Viceregal Era: Construction began in the late 16th century, but the present structure was largely realized in 1793 .
- The Blue Palace: Its 18th-century transformation covered the façade in blue-and-white Talavera tiles, earning its enduring nickname and dazzling both locals and travelers ever since .
- Private to Public: The palace remained a private mansion until the late 19th century, before passing through various owners as the city modernized .
- Sanborns Era: In 1919, the building entered its current vibrant phase when Frank and Walter Sanborn, American-born entrepreneurs, founded a soda fountain, American-style pharmacy, and café, introducing new culinary experiences to Mexico .
Throughout its life, the palace has withstood earthquakes, floods, the Mexican War of Independence, and the Revolution. Its current use for dining and shopping does nothing to diminish its role as a living monument to the city’s resilience.
Baroque Splendor: Architecture and Design
The architecture of La Casa de los Azulejos is a masterful example of New Spanish Baroque, blending Old-World grandeur with Mexican artistry . It is a prime example of how the Spanish colonial elite expressed their wealth and cultural ambitions.
- Façade: The external walls shimmer with hundreds of blue and white Talavera tiles from Puebla, covering three sides of the building .
- Entrances & Layout: Entry is from Callejón de la Condesa, between the bustling 5 de Mayo and Avenida Madero pedestrian corridors . Its location has always been one of Mexico City’s most desirable addresses.
- Central Courtyard: A soaring inner courtyard illuminated by a stained-glass roof, added during the Sanborns conversion, remains the core of the palace . Guests dine beneath graceful arches and cast-iron balconies.
- Columns & Arches: Slender columns encircle the upper walkways, capped with elaborate capitals. Grand staircases and Baroque fountains add a sense of poetic movement and opulence .
- Multiple Renovations: The palace has been repeatedly adapted: additions for street widening in 1904, modern amenities, and preservation efforts to maintain historical integrity .
The Mystery and Beauty of Puebla Tiles
The very soul of La Casa de los Azulejos rests in its dazzling tilework. These Puebla Talavera tiles have come to symbolize both the house and the city itself.
- Talavera Tiles: The glazed blue-and-white tiles originate from artisan workshops in Puebla. Used to signify wealth and status in colonial Mexico, their use on the palace was a bold, lavish gesture .
- Cultural Symbolism: Talavera tiles were originally brought from Spain, then adapted and perfected in Mexico. Their presence here uniquely fuses Spanish and indigenous influences.
- Legends: Local lore suggests the tiles were added when the son of a count was challenged to redeem himself after a life of folly—he responded by renovating the palace in the most extravagant fashion possible.
- Preservation: Today’s tiles—weathered yet vivid—still evoke awe, a testament to centuries of craftsmanship and preservation.
Artistry Within: Orozco, Pacologue, and Mural Heritage
While the façade draws crowds, the artwork inside La Casa de los Azulejos deepens its cultural legacy.
- José Clemente Orozco: One of Mexico’s most brilliant muralists, Orozco created Omnisciencia (“Omniscience”) in 1925, on the central stairwell’s landing. This early masterwork weaves themes of human knowledge and experience—foreshadowing his international acclaim .
- Pacologue’s Peacock Mural: The courtyard’s dining room boasts a gorgeous mural by Pacologue, a Romanian painter active in Mexico in the early 20th century. Painted in 1919, this vibrant artwork features a peacock—a symbol of beauty and elegance—watching over guests as they dine .
The artistry extends beyond murals. The interior preserves colonial-era tile baseboards, baroque fountains, and original ironwork, all meticulously maintained.
Sanborns: The Birth of a Mexican Institution
The intrinsic connection between La Casa de los Azulejos and Sanborns dates to 1919. When American brothers Frank and Walter Sanborn expanded their business to this historic address, their vision was transformative .
- Pioneering Cafe & Pharmacy: The Sanborns flagship offered a blend of American soda fountain, pharmacy, and Mexican café. Over time, it became renowned for its reasonable prices and convivial atmosphere .
- Cultural Magnet: The opening gathered elites, families, writers, and international correspondents—soon, Sanborns was synonymous with Mexico City culture .
- Philanthropy: A portion of early opening-day profits even benefited the Red Cross, reflecting the brothers’ civic spirit .
- Chain Expansion: Today, the company is one of Mexico’s best-known retail and restaurant brands, but no branch rivals the architectural drama and nostalgic allure of the flagship store in the historic center .
Experiencing La Casa Today
Visiting Casa de los Azulejos is a journey into beauty, history, and everyday life, as the building is freely open to diners, shoppers, and the simply curious alike .
- Dine in History: Have breakfast, lunch, or dinner under Baroque arches—best-selling menu items include traditional enchiladas suizas, freshly baked pastries, and signature “Sanborns chocolate.”
- Admire the Art & Architecture: Even a walk through the building rewards visitors with a feast of mural art, tilework, and 18th-century design details. Photographers and history enthusiasts flock to the grand staircase and hand-painted tiles.
- Browse the Store: Beyond the café, Sanborns’ ground floor sells books, souvenirs, local crafts, and fine chocolates—ideal for browsing or choosing gifts.
- Open Access: The palace remains accessible during business hours. Many visitors wander inside just to marvel at its historic ambiance, even if they don’t dine there .
- Special Events: Occasionally, cultural events and exhibitions are held in the space, connecting contemporary life with Mexico’s enduring artistic traditions.
Surroundings: The Soulful Streets of the Historic Center
Casa de los Azulejos’ prime location places guests amid Mexico City’s grandest historical avenues and cultural attractions:
- Avenida Madero: Now a vibrant pedestrian street, Madero has been central to city life since the 16th century, once crowded with silversmiths and nobility .
- Nearby Landmarks: Within easy walking distance are the Zócalo, the Metropolitan Cathedral, Palace of Fine Arts, Alameda Central, and the ruins of the Templo Mayor.
- Atmosphere: Street musicians, painters, vendors, and families animate the plaza outside, creating a lively, welcoming ambiance day and night.
The area is a gateway to understanding Mexico’s layered history, with Casa de los Azulejos gleaming as an anchor in this cultural landscape.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What makes La Casa de los Azulejos so famous?
Its exterior is lavishly covered in blue-and-white Puebla tiles. The blend of Baroque architecture, history, and its legacy as Sanborns’ flagship restaurant have made it one of Mexico City’s most photographed and beloved sites .
Can you visit without dining at Sanborns?
Yes, the building is open to the public during business hours. Many visit just to admire its architecture, murals, and shop; dining is encouraged but not mandatory .
What artworks are inside Casa de los Azulejos?
Notable are José Clemente Orozco’s “Omnisciencia” mural (1925) and Pacologue’s peacock mural (1919). Original colonial tilework, wrought iron, and Baroque fountains further embellish the interior .
Is the architecture unique compared to other sites in Mexico City?
Absolutely. The Baroque, tile-covered façade and the blend of Spanish-European and Mexican elements set it apart as a unique cultural and architectural treasure .
Where is the Casa de los Azulejos located?
It stands at Callejón de la Condesa, between 5 de Mayo and Avenida Madero, right in the center of Mexico City’s historic district .
Essential Visitor Information
- Hours: Open daily; hours vary for restaurant and store (typically 7:00 AM to midnight).
- Accessibility: Courtyards and ground floor accessible to most visitors; some upper areas accessible only by stairs.
- Dress Code: Casual attire is acceptable; photography is encouraged but respect staff and patrons.
Table: Key Milestones of Casa de los Azulejos
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| 16th century | Site acquired by first Counts of the Valley of Orizaba |
| 1737 | Façade covered with Puebla Talavera tiles |
| 1793 | Main structure completed in Baroque style |
| 1919 | Sanborns opens flagship restaurant and store |
| 1925 | “Omnisciencia” mural by Orozco painted |
| Today | Iconic landmark blending history, commerce, and culture |
Why La Casa de los Azulejos Remains a Must-See
- Cultural Landmark: A living window into Mexico’s artistic, social, and architectural heritage.
- Instagram Favorite: Its photogenic tilework and romantic ambiance are irresistible to travelers and locals.
- Diverse Experience: From a luxury meal to a casual coffee, or even a brief architectural stroll, there’s something for every visitor.
- Gateway to the City: Perfect start or finish to a walking tour of Mexico City’s historic center.
Whether you come for breakfast, photographs, or the rich taste of history, Sanborns’ Casa de los Azulejos is an invitation to step into the timeless heart of Mexico City itself.
