Winter Squash Pancakes with Crispy Sage and Brown Butter Recipe
Savory, satisfying, and perfectly golden brown—these winter squash pancakes are a must-make for any autumn meal.
Winter Squash Pancakes with Crispy Sage and Brown Butter
If you’re looking for a cozy, comforting dish that blends the flavors of fall with a comforting, pancake-like texture, look no further than Winter Squash Pancakes with Crispy Sage and Brown Butter. This recipe, beloved by cookbook author and Smitten Kitchen creator Deb Perelman, is a savory twist on the usual sweet pancake stack—perfect for dinner or a hearty weekend brunch.
A Dish That Almost Didn’t Make the Cut
Sometimes, the best recipes are the ones that feel like “displacements” or “rejects,” as Perelman describes them—because their flavors, format, or ingredients felt redundant in the context of a larger cookbook project. But what’s overlooked in one context shines brightly in another: this unique dish survived the editorial cutting room floor and ended up as a cherished favorite, shared online for everyone to enjoy.
Ingredients and Substitutions
This recipe celebrates flexibility and resourcefulness. The star ingredient is roasted, mashed winter squash, but as Perelman notes, you can use any variety you have or can get, such as kabocha or butternut. The batter is whisked together with simple pantry staples, resulting in a thick, savory pancake that’s satisfying and versatile.
Pancake Ingredients
- 1 cup (8 to 8 1/4 ounces) roasted and mashed winter squash (any variety)
- 1/3 cup (80 grams) yogurt or sour cream
- 2 large eggs
- 1/2 cup (about 30 grams) finely grated Gruyère, Comté, or Parmesan cheese
- 3/4 teaspoon fine sea or table salt
- A few grinds of black pepper
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour
- Butter or olive oil for frying pan
To Finish
- 2 to 3 tablespoons butter
- A pinch or two of salt
- A few fresh sage leaves
Ingredient swaps are encouraged—sour cream can replace yogurt, and different hard cheeses can be used depending on your preference.
Step-by-Step Instructions
How to Roast Winter Squash
For butternut or kabocha squash, halve the squash, scoop out the seeds, and roast it face-down on an oiled, coarse-salt-sprinkled baking sheet at 375°F (190°C) for 40–50 minutes, until tender. For peeled and cubed squash, roasting should take about 25 minutes. One small-medium squash (about 2 pounds) yields about 2 cups of mashed squash.
Making the Batter
- In a large bowl, whisk together the mashed squash, yogurt (or sour cream), eggs, grated cheese, salt, pepper, and baking powder until smooth.
- Add the flour and stir just until combined—don’t overmix.
Cooking the Pancakes
- Heat a large frying pan over medium-low to medium heat. Coat the bottom with butter or olive oil.
- Spoon in the batter, a heaping soup spoon or scant 1/4 cup at a time. Press the back of the batter mound to flatten the pancake slightly.
- Cook until golden brown underneath, then flip and cook until golden on the other side. If pancakes brown too quickly, lower the heat.
- If you’re concerned about the centers cooking through, finish them in a 250°F (120°C) oven for 10 minutes, or keep them warm there until serving.
Finishing with Crispy Sage and Brown Butter
- Wipe out the frying pan, then place butter, a pinch or two of salt, and sage leaves back in the pan over medium heat.
- Let the sage crisp and the butter brown, watching closely—this happens in just a minute or two.
- Pour the sizzling sage leaves and butter over the pancakes and serve immediately.
The result is a plate of savory, golden pancakes topped with a finishing scatter of crispy sage leaves and a drizzle of nutty brown butter—an unforgettable blend of earthy, cheesy, and herbaceous flavors that will quickly become your new favorite way to enjoy winter squash.
Tips and Variations
- Don’t hesitate to double the recipe—these pancakes keep well in the fridge and reheat beautifully, and can even be frozen for later meals.
- Swap different types of winter squash, cheeses, or dairy products to suit what’s in your kitchen.
- For a lighter version, try whole wheat flour or a gluten-free blend.
- If you want a vegan variation, experiment with non-dairy yogurt and a flax egg, though the texture and flavor may differ.
Why These Pancakes Are Special
Unlike traditional pancakes, which are sweet and breakfast-oriented, these squash pancakes are savory, making them ideal for dinner or brunch. They skip the expected sugar and pumpkin spice, instead relying on the natural sweetness of roasted squash, the richness of cheese, and the toasty depth of brown butter.
Moreover, this recipe is a wonderful way to use up leftover roasted squash—no need for perfectly pureed flesh, so even slightly chunky mash works. This practical, resourceful approach makes it a favorite for busy nights or impromptu gatherings.
Serving Suggestions
These pancakes are best served hot, straight from the pan, with the sage-infused brown butter poured over the top. For a meal, pair them with a light salad, roasted vegetables, or even a poached egg for extra protein. They’re also delicious on their own as a vegetarian main course or a hearty side dish.
If serving for brunch, consider offering a variety of toppings—avocado slices, a dollop of sour cream, or even a drizzle of hot honey for those who want a sweet-savory twist.
Recipe Variations and Inspiration
The Smitten Kitchen archives are rich with creative ways to use winter squash, from a Moroccan-inspired chickpea stew to a savory pasta bake with squash and spinach. These pancakes are just one example of how this versatile vegetable can be transformed into something unexpected—far from the usual soups and pies.
Make Ahead and Storage
This recipe is a boon for make-ahead meals and meal prepping. Pancakes can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for several days or frozen for up to a month. Reheat gently on the stovetop or in a toaster oven for best results.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can I use fresh squash, or do I need to roast it first?
The squash should be roasted and mashed before adding it to the batter. Roasting brings out the sweetness and depth of flavor, which is essential for the recipe.
What kind of squash can I use?
Butternut, kabocha, or any firm winter squash will work well. The recipe is flexible—use what you have on hand.
Can I make these pancakes vegan?
You can experiment with plant-based yogurt and a flax egg, but the texture and flavor may be different from the original recipe. The cheese and eggs play a significant role here.
How do I prevent the pancakes from being soggy?
Make sure the squash is well roasted and not too wet. If it’s watery, let it drain before mashing. Also, be sure to cook the pancakes until golden on each side—don’t rush the process.
Can I omit the cheese if I have a dairy allergy?
The cheese adds richness, but you can leave it out. The pancakes will be less hearty but still flavorful.
What can I use instead of sage?
Fresh rosemary or thyme are good substitutes for sage, offering a different but complementary herbal note.
Conclusion
Winter Squash Pancakes with Crispy Sage and Brown Butter are a revelation—comforting, deeply flavored, versatile, and a perfect canvas for improvisation. This recipe is ideal for those nights when you want something warm, satisfying, and a little unexpected. They’re a great showcase for seasonal produce, a clever way to use leftovers, and a dish that’s likely to become a regular fixture at your autumn table.
