Pizza Focaccia with Tomato Sauce & Green Onion: A Liguria Bakery Tribute
Discover the history, technique, and variations of San Francisco’s iconic tomato and green onion focaccia.
Pizza Focaccia with Tomato Sauce & Green Onion: An Homage to a San Francisco Icon
Focaccia, a beloved Italian flatbread, boasts countless regional variations, but none quite as alluring as San Francisco’s Liguria Bakery-style pizza focaccia. Crowned with savory jammy tomato sauce and sprinkled with chopped green onions—yet notably missing cheese—this focaccia is both a local legend and a testament to culinary adaptation. This article explores its history, walks you through the essential techniques, and opens the door to inspired adaptations, reflecting a bread with roots deeper than pizza itself.
Origins: A Bakery and a Bread with History
Liguria Bakery has stood as a cornerstone of San Francisco’s North Beach neighborhood since 1911. Originally a traditional corner bakery, it eventually transitioned to producing only focaccia. The shop became famous for offering up to ten varieties (eleven on Saturdays), each individually wrapped in butcher paper and bakery twine—a sight sure to stir nostalgia for regulars.
Yet, it’s the “pizza” focaccia—inspired by classic Italian bread—that captures the imagination. Layering a thin coating of tomato sauce and chopped green onions, Liguria’s creation foregoes the cheese normally expected of pizza. Instead, the bread achieves a sublime blend of chewy crumb, crisp bottom crust, and sticky, jam-like tomato topping, with a generous scattering of scallions adding both brightness and depth.
- Opened: 1911
- Location: North Beach, San Francisco
- Signature offers: Focaccia in multiple varieties (plain, raisin, jalapeño-cheese, and especially pizza-style)
Focaccia and Pizza: Culinary Relatives
Focaccia’s lineage predates modern pizza. According to culinary historian Lynne Olver, focaccia could trace its roots to the Etruscans or Ancient Greeks. Through centuries and across regions, focaccia developed countless forms and flavors, both savory and sweet, with toppings ranging from onions and tomatoes to grapes. Today’s focaccia is known for its finger-dimpled, oily surface that yields a flavorful, crisped bottom.
Chef Marc Vetri notes in Mastering Pizza that focaccia is often considered “naked pizza”—a simple bread as opposed to the more meal-like, heavily topped pizza al taglio. Yet, the version covered with tomato sauce and scallions blurs this distinction, creating a harmonious hybrid that evokes pizza’s prowess while remaining a celebration of bread.
The Recipe: Pizza Focaccia with Tomato Sauce & Green Onion
This recipe, adapted from Ella Quittner’s tribute to Liguria Bakery, focuses on simplicity and bold flavors. With minimal, high-quality ingredients and an easy-to-follow technique, anyone can recreate this iconic focaccia at home.
Ingredients
- 1 cup slightly warm water (222 grams) (just above body temperature)
- 2 teaspoons active dry yeast (7 grams)
- 2 1/2 cups bread flour (300 grams), plus ~1/3 cup extra for kneading
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt (7 grams), plus extra for topping
- 2 tablespoons + 3 tablespoons + 1/2 cup olive oil (total 180 grams)
- 3/4 cup chopped scallions (greens only), divided into 1/2 cup and 1/4 cup portions
- 1 cup canned crushed or pureed tomatoes (ideally San Marzano)
Equipment
- Mixing bowls
- Measuring cups and spoons or a kitchen scale
- 9 x 13-inch sheet pan
- Plastic wrap
- Cook’s knife
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Activate Yeast:
In a large bowl, combine slightly warm water and active dry yeast. Allow to stand for about 5 minutes, until the mixture appears foamy and the yeast has dissolved.
- Mix Dough:
Add bread flour and kosher salt to the activated yeast. Pour in 2 tablespoons olive oil, then mix with a wooden spoon or hands until a shaggy dough forms.
- Knead:
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Knead, adding up to 1/3 cup extra flour, until the dough is smooth and elastic (about 5-7 minutes).
- First Rise:
Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until doubled (about 1 hour).
- Shape for Pan:
Generously oil the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch pan with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Press the risen dough into the pan, stretching gently to fit. Dimple the top with your fingertips.
- Top and Second Rise:
Spread crushed tomatoes over the surface in a thin, even layer. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup scallions and drizzle with 1/2 cup olive oil. Cover loosely and let rise about 30 minutes.
- Bake:
Bake in a preheated oven at 425°F (220°C) for about 20 minutes, until golden and crisp on the bottom. The edges should be lightly browned and the tomato layer slightly jammy.
- Finish:
Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup scallions, drizzle with a bit more olive oil, and add salt to taste. Let cool briefly before slicing and serving.
Why This Focaccia Stands Out
- No cheese required: The blend of tangy tomatoes and sweet scallion is satisfying without dairy.
- Distinct texture: Jammy tomato topping moistens and flavors the bread while preserving the crunch of the crust.
- Heavy scallion use: Both gentle and intense—scallions impart a complex, savory twist.
- Crisp, oily crust: Finger-dimpling and generous olive oil yield near-fried edges with deep flavor.
Creative Variations and Serving Ideas
While this focaccia pays homage to Liguria Bakery’s original, it also invites adaptation. Use seasonal produce, add cheese for extra richness, or change the herbs and spices for a new twist. Here are a few popular ideas:
- Cheese: Sprinkle grated mozzarella, Parmesan, or burrata before or after baking.
- Alternative greens: Swap scallions for chives, leeks, or ramps.
- Additional toppings: Add roasted garlic, pepperoni, olives, or fresh basil.
- Serve with: Ricotta cheese, fresh herbs, or alongside salads and soups.
Nutritional Highlights
| Ingredient | Key Nutrients | Health Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Bread Flour | Complex carbohydrates, protein | Energy source, satiety |
| Olive Oil | Monounsaturated fats, Vitamin E | Heart health, flavor |
| Tomato Sauce | Lycopene, Vitamin C | Antioxidant, immune support |
| Scallions | Vitamin K, Vitamin A | Bone health, vision |
Although focaccia is not generally considered low-calorie, the use of olive oil and fresh vegetables provides unique health benefits compared to richer, cheese-heavy pizzas.
Storing & Reheating Tips
- Refrigeration: Store cooled focaccia slices in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
- Freezing: Wrap tightly and freeze for up to 1 month. Thaw at room temperature and reheat in a low oven.
- Reheating: Bake in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 5–8 minutes, or microwave briefly for a softer texture.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Is this focaccia the same as Italian pizza?
A: No, this focaccia lacks cheese and uses a bread-like dough, distinguishing it from traditional pizza.
Q: Can I use different toppings?
A: Absolutely. Common variants include cheeses, herbs, and cured meats. It’s ideal for experimentation.
Q: How do I know when the dough has risen enough?
A: The dough should double in bulk after the first rise and spring back gently when poked. For best results, allow enough time at room temperature.
Q: Do I need a baking stone or special equipment?
A: A standard sheet pan works well, but an oiled cast iron pan or pizza stone can enhance texture.
Q: Why is olive oil so important in focaccia?
A: It creates the crisp, golden crust and adds supple texture and rich flavor; use generously for authentic results.
Conclusion: A Bread for All Occasions
Liguria Bakery’s tomato and green onion focaccia persists as a culinary memory for many San Franciscans and bread lovers worldwide. Its straightforward ingredients, combined with a unique layering technique and generous use of olive oil, elevate the humble flatbread into a legendary bite of history. Whether enjoyed warm by itself, topped with ricotta, or used as a canvas for further flavor experiments, this focaccia is easy to make, impossible to forget, and always satisfying.
Quick Recap: Key Points
- Inspired by San Francisco’s Liguria Bakery: Focus on tomato sauce and green onions, no cheese.
- Ancient roots: Focaccia predates pizza, often cited as a proto-pizza or simple bread.
- Essential techniques: Dimpling, olive oil layering, proper rising, and jammy tomato application.
- Endless variations: Adapt with seasonal produce, herbs, cheeses, or meats.
- Ideal for any occasion: Perfect as breakfast, snack, side, or centerpiece with creative toppings.
