Parkway Bakery & Tavern: The Historic Heart of New Orleans Poor Boys
Dive into the century-old story and culinary traditions behind Parkway Bakery & Tavern, where the New Orleans poor boy sandwich became legendary.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern: A New Orleans Icon
Among the many culinary treasures of New Orleans, few can rival the legacy and community devotion of Parkway Bakery & Tavern. For well over a century, this Mid-City institution has been more than a place to eat—it’s a living testament to the city’s resilience, flavors, and people. The story of Parkway is not only about delicious poor boy sandwiches, but about history, tradition, and the enduring spirit of New Orleans.
Origins: The Birth of a Neighborhood Landmark
Parkway Bakery opened its doors in 1911 at 538 Hagan Avenue, established by German baker Charles Goering Sr. Originally, it was a small bakery and corner store, specializing in fresh-baked French bread—a staple in every New Orleanian’s diet at the time.
- French bread was Parkway’s first claim to fame, renowned citywide for its quality.
- In 1922, ownership passed to Henry Timothy Sr., who expanded the bakery’s offerings to include donuts and sweet rolls.
- The bakery quickly became an essential part of neighborhood life, providing local residents and workers with daily sustenance.
The Rise of the Poor Boy Sandwich
The history of the poor boy sandwich—now known far and wide as the po’ boy—is inseparable from Parkway’s story. The invention of this iconic sandwich reflects the city’s values of community, ingenuity, and generosity.
The Poor Boy Legend: Humble Origins, Legendary Status
The Martin Brothers and the 1929 Streetcar Strike
In 1929, during a massive streetcar workers’ strike, brothers Bennie and Clovis Martin—former streetcar conductors themselves—created the “poor boy” sandwich. Their restaurant became a haven for striking workers, offering hearty sandwiches of fried potatoes, gravy, and bits of roast beef on thick French bread free of charge to those in need. When striking union members walked in, Benny would call, “Here comes another poor boy!” The name stuck, forever linking the sandwich to the city’s working class.
- The Martin Brothers innovated the poor boy’s bread, working with baker John Gendusa on a 32-inch loaf with a uniform shape to ensure more even, waste-free slicing.
- The sandwich quickly gained popularity during the Great Depression for being both filling and affordable. A 20-inch half-loaf poor boy could be bought for just 15 cents in the 1930s.
- As times grew hard, poor boys became a primary source of nourishment for families across New Orleans.
Parkway Bakery Joins the Poor Boy Tradition
Around the same time, Parkway’s owner Henry Timothy Sr. recognized the need to support the community. He opened Parkway’s own “Poor Boy” shop in 1929:
- French fry poor boys were given free to union members and conductors, cementing Parkway’s place as a friend to working people.
- Parkway also began offering poor boys around the clock to local workers, including those at the nearby American Can Company, which helped grow its loyal clientele.
By the start of the Great Depression, Parkway had established itself as one of the most important purveyors of poor boys in the city, recognized for quality, service, and community care.
Challenges and Adaptation through the Decades
Parkway’s journey has not been without hardship. The restaurant endured several significant trials, each time emerging stronger and more beloved by its community.
Surviving Flood and Change
- By the 1960s, the Timothy family supplied bread to most restaurants in Mid-City, running Parkway as a bakery and sandwich shop.
- In 1978, a major flood destroyed Parkway’s original brick ovens, forcing the business to begin sourcing bread from Leidenheimer Baking Company and focus exclusively on sandwiches.
- Despite its rough-around-the-edges charm, Parkway remained a popular lunch destination, even as times changed around it.
The Near End and a Remarkable Revival
- By 1988, with the closure of the American Can Company, Parkway’s customer base dwindled. Reduced hours could not save the shop, which closed its doors in 1993.
- Jay Nix purchased the building in 1995, initially with no plans to revive the restaurant, using it instead as a toolshed. But as he learned the importance of Parkway to its neighbors and the city’s heritage, he decided to bring it back to life.
- With his nephew, Justin Kennedy, as manager and head chef, Nix reopened Parkway Bakery and Tavern in 2003 to the delight of New Orleanians. Lines wrapped around the block, and the new Parkway quickly reestablished itself as a culinary landmark.
Resilience after Hurricane Katrina
- In 2005, Hurricane Katrina brought six feet of floodwater to Parkway, again threatening its existence.
- Justin Kennedy encouraged Jay Nix not to give up, and together they repaired and reopened by December 2005.
- The reopening was widely celebrated as a symbol of New Orleans’ rebirth and communal spirit after devastating loss.
Signature Sandwiches and Enduring Traditions
Today, Parkway Bakery & Tavern stands as a shrine to the poor boy sandwich and to New Orleans hospitality. The extensive menu pays homage to both tradition and innovation, with careful attention to ingredients and preparation methods.
Most Famous Poor Boys
- Roast Beef Poor Boy with Debris: A signature favorite, featuring tender slow-cooked roast beef with savory gravy, often referred to locally as “debris.”
- Golden Fried Shrimp Poor Boy: Crisp Gulf shrimp served on French bread with classic fixings.
- Smoked Alligator Sausage Poor Boy: A unique twist showcasing regional flavors and creativity.
- French Fry Poor Boy: A nod to Parkway’s Depression-era generosity, this simple sandwich of fries and gravy remains a local comfort food staple.
Dressing the Sandwich
A proper Parkway poor boy is usually ordered “dressed”—meaning shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes, pickles, and creamy mayonnaise. Customization is encouraged; each sandwich is made to order, honoring personal taste alongside local tradition.
Atmosphere and Hospitality
- Laid-back, unpretentious aura: Parkway maintains its vintage charm with wooden bar stools, handwritten menus, and a bustling, family-friendly vibe.
- Outdoor seating: On clear days, guests can enjoy their sandwiches outside with locals and visitors alike.
- Bar service: The tavern side offers a selection of beers and classic New Orleans cocktails, rounding out the dining experience.
Community, Philosophy, and Cultural Impact
Far beyond being just a restaurant, Parkway Bakery & Tavern has become part of the fabric of New Orleans life—unchanged by trends yet always welcoming the new. Its philosophy is simple and profound: serve honest food, support the community, and honor tradition while embracing the future.
- Parkway’s branding has returned to “poor boy” (as opposed to “po’ boy” or other spelling variations), honoring the original purpose and the legacy of the strike-era workers.
- General Manager Justin Kennedy describes poor boys as “a way of life. It’s like going to church. It’s like walking your dog… it’s the lifeblood in New Orleans.”
- For locals and visitors, a trip to Parkway is a rite of passage—a taste of history and a celebration of New Orleans’ indomitable spirit.
Dining Experience: Tips and Advice
If you’re planning to visit Parkway Bakery & Tavern, consider these helpful hints for the best experience:
- Arrive early: The lunch rush can draw long lines, especially on weekends. Early arrivals are rewarded with shorter waits and fresh selections.
- Be patient: Even when crowds are daunting, the wait is well worth it for an authentic New Orleans poor boy experience.
- Get it dressed: Order your sandwich “dressed” for the classic flavor combination.
- Explore the menu: While roast beef is legendary, don’t miss the fried seafood options or creative specials that showcase Louisiana’s rich culinary heritage.
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Sample Table: Parkway Poor Boy Menu Highlights
| Sandwich | Main Ingredients | Signature Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Roast Beef Poor Boy | Slow-cooked beef, gravy (debris) | Tender beef, soaked-in gravy |
| Golden Fried Shrimp Poor Boy | Seasoned fried shrimp, lettuce, tomato | Crisp shrimp, fresh produce |
| Smoked Alligator Sausage Poor Boy | Spicy alligator sausage, toppings | Local flair, spicy kick |
| French Fry Poor Boy | French fries, brown gravy | Simple, classic comfort food |
Parkway Bakery in the Modern Era
Parkway’s influence reaches well beyond New Orleans. It is regularly featured in national publications, cited by food historians, and recommended by locals as the definitive destination for poor boys. Today, Parkway offers over 25 types of poor boys, ensuring that every diner finds their favorite flavor.
Despite modern challenges and changes in the culinary landscape, Parkway’s commitment to quality and tradition has only grown stronger. The tavern and bakery remain pillars of authenticity—respected as much for their charitable spirit and welcoming atmosphere as for what comes out of the kitchen.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: When did Parkway Bakery & Tavern originally open?
A: Parkway Bakery & Tavern was established in 1911 as a bakery and corner store specializing in fresh French bread.
Q: What is the origin of the “poor boy” sandwich?
A: The poor boy was invented in 1929 by Bennie and Clovis Martin during the streetcar workers’ strike, offering hearty, affordable sandwiches to striking workers. Parkway became one of the first to serve these sandwiches in the same year, supporting local workers and later expanding the tradition.
Q: Are there vegetarian or non-meat poor boy options at Parkway?
A: Yes. Parkway honors its heritage with items like the French Fry Poor Boy and often features specials or custom options that cater to different dietary preferences.
Q: Why is the sandwich sometimes called “poor boy,” “po’ boy,” or “po-boy”?
A: “Poor boy” is the original name, harkening back to 1929 and the streetcar strikers, though other spellings have become common. Parkway honors the original spelling as part of its identity and respect for the past.
Q: What makes Parkway’s poor boys special?
A: Parkway’s attention to detail, use of quality ingredients, freshly made sandwiches, and deep roots in New Orleans history all make their poor boys stand out. The restaurant’s commitment to the community and tradition resonates in every bite.
Q: Is Parkway Bakery & Tavern still family run?
A: While ownership changed to Jay Nix in 1995, Parkway continues family-style management, with Nix’s nephew Justin Kennedy acting as general manager and head chef.
Visiting Parkway Bakery & Tavern
The historic building at 538 Hagan Avenue welcomes guests daily. Whether you are a first-time tourist or a lifelong regular, Parkway invites everyone to share in a tradition that remains as vital today as it was a century ago.
- Check the hours before visiting, as they can vary seasonally.
- Indoor and outdoor seating, plus a full tavern bar, ensure a hospitable experience whatever your mood.
Conclusion
Parkway Bakery & Tavern is more than a celebrated restaurant; it is a living archive of New Orleans’ foodways and communal spirit. Through humble sandwiches, rich history, and an unwavering sense of place, Parkway continues to unite generations and nourish both body and soul.
