Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake: A Deliciously Nutty Dessert
A rich, nutty cake made from toasted hazelnuts and browned butter, inspired by Sunday Suppers at Lucques.
Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake: A Symphony of Flavor
There are cakes that are memorable, and then there are cakes that become legendary. Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake, adapted from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques, is one such dessert. This cake combines the earthy richness of toasted hazelnuts with the deep, caramelized aroma of browned butter, resulting in a dessert that’s as elegant as it is irresistible. The original recipe was even served as Chef Goin’s wedding cake, a testament to its special-occasion worthiness.
The Source and Inspiration
The recipe for this Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake was inspired by the cookbook Sunday Suppers at Lucques, written by acclaimed chef Suzanne Goin. The cake is not only a delicious dessert but also carries a story of being cherished enough to grace a wedding table. The adaptation from Smitten Kitchen brings the recipe to home bakers, showing that with a bit of care and technique, you can create a dessert worthy of a chef’s celebration.
Ingredients: Quality Matters
Every great cake begins with great ingredients. Here’s what you’ll need:
- 5 ounces (about 1 heaping cup) hazelnuts, blanched to remove the skins
- 1/2 pound (8 ounces) unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the pan
- 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped or 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1 1/3 cups powdered sugar, plus extra for dusting
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 5 extra-large egg whites (or 6 large eggs)
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
The quality of the hazelnuts and butter is especially important here, as they provide the starring flavors. Oregon hazelnuts, for example, are noted for their richness, but any fresh, high-quality hazelnut will work.
Preparing the Hazelnuts
Toasting and skinning hazelnuts is a key step. Here’s how the process was described:
- Preheat the oven to 350°F and spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet. Toast for 12–15 minutes until golden brown and fragrant. Allow them to cool.
- Blanching, or removing the skins, can be done by wrapping the toasted nuts in a dish towel while still warm, letting them steam for about five minutes, then vigorously rubbing them together in the towel. Alternatively, you can place them in a colander and use a clean scrub brush to brush off their skins.
It’s a labor of love, but the reward is hazelnuts with a smooth, buttery finish, free from any bitterness the skins might impart.
Making the Brown Butter
This cake’s distinctive flavor comes from browned butter, which adds a nutty, caramel-like depth:
- Place the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the vanilla bean seeds (use the pod as well for extra flavor, then remove it later) and cook over medium heat until the butter turns deep golden brown and smells nutty, about 6–8 minutes. Stir frequently, especially in the last couple of minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to ensure even browning and prevent burning.
- Remove the pan from the heat, set aside to cool, and discard the vanilla pod.
Why Brown Butter?
Browning butter transforms its flavor and aroma, turning it into something richer and more complex. The process evaporates water content and toasts the milk solids, creating golden bits that taste deeply nutty and savory. In this cake, brown butter is the bridge between the toasted hazelnuts and the tender cake crumb, making the dessert truly distinctive.
Blending the Dry Ingredients
Once the hazelnuts are cooled, grind them with the powdered sugar in a food processor until finely ground. Add the flour and pulse to combine, then transfer the mixture to a large bowl. This blend infuses the flour with the nut’s oil, enhancing the cake’s moistness and flavor.
Whipping the Egg Whites
The cake’s light, airy texture comes from whipped egg whites:
- Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Add the granulated sugar and whip on high speed for 4–5 minutes until stiff peaks form.
- When you turn the whisk upside down, the peaks should hold without drooping.
The egg whites are the magic ingredient that keeps the cake from being dense, giving it a delicate, almost meringue-like crumb.
Combining Everything
Now, fold together the dry ingredients and brown butter with the whipped egg whites:
- Transfer the egg whites to a large mixing bowl.
- Alternate folding the dry ingredients and the brown butter into the egg whites, adding a third of each at a time to prevent deflating the whites.
- Make sure to scrape all the browned bits from the bottom of the butter pan, as these bits are packed with flavor.
Gently fold until just combined, taking care not to overmix and knock the air out of the whites.
Baking the Cake
- Preheat the oven to 350°F.
- Grease a 10-inch round cake pan with melted butter and line the bottom with a parchment circle.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the cake is golden, pulling away from the edges slightly, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
- Let the cake cool in the pan for 30 minutes, then run a knife around the edge and invert onto a plate. Peel off the parchment, turn the cake back over for serving, and dust with powdered sugar.
The original recipe notes that the cake can be drizzled with ganache for added indulgence.
Serving and Storage
This cake is delicious on the day it’s baked, but according to Smitten Kitchen, it’s even better the next day, after being chilled in the refrigerator overnight. The flavors have time to meld, and the texture becomes even more tender. Dust with powdered sugar before serving, or drizzle with coffee-spiked chocolate ganache for a rich, decadent touch.
Variations and Adaptations
The original recipe lends itself to variations:
- If you don’t have a vanilla bean, use 1/2 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract or even vanilla bean paste.
- Try different nuts—pecans or walnuts would make interesting flavor twists.
- For a chocolate finish, drizzle the cooled cake with ganache (4 ounces semisweet chocolate, 1/4 cup heavy cream, 1/2 teaspoon instant coffee granules, melted together and cooled slightly before pouring over the cake).
- Serve with coffee (the original chef’s suggestion) or a dollop of whipped cream.
Experimenting with toppings or glazes can make this cake your signature dessert.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can I use hazelnut flour instead of whole hazelnuts?
Freshly grinding toasted hazelnuts is preferred for the best flavor and texture. While hazelnut flour is convenient, it lacks the oil and aroma of freshly ground nuts. If you must use pre-ground, toast hazelnut flour slightly before use, and reduce the amount of flour in the recipe to compensate.
Can I substitute the vanilla bean with extract?
Yes, you can use 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or even vanilla bean paste if you don’t have a vanilla bean. The bean pod, however, adds subtle flavor and fragrance to the brown butter.
How do I know when the butter is browned enough?
Butter is browned enough when it turns a rich amber color, smells nutty, and the milk solids at the bottom are golden, not blackened. Take it off the heat immediately to prevent burning.
Why do egg whites need to be whipped, and what happens if I don’t?
Whipped egg whites introduce air, giving the cake a light, airy texture. Skipping this step will result in a dense, heavy cake.
Can I make this cake gluten-free?
You can try substituting gluten-free flour, but the result may not hold together as well. Consider a blend designed for cakes, and expect a different texture.
Why This Cake Is Special
This Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake is more than just a recipe; it’s an experience. The combination of deeply toasted hazelnuts, nutty brown butter, and just enough vanilla creates a dessert that is both sophisticated and comforting. It’s a cake that surprises with its complex flavor profile—each bite offers a balance of sweet, nutty, and slightly caramelized notes.
The cake’s texture is another highlight. The whipped egg whites ensure a light, almost meringue-like crumb, while the browned butter adds richness and a bit of chew. The result is a dessert that sits somewhere between cake and nougat, with a fine, slightly chewy mouthfeel.
Tips for Success
- Take your time with each step—toasting the nuts, browning the butter, and whipping the egg whites properly are all crucial.
- Don’t rush the cooling process; browned butter needs to be cool but still liquid when added to the batter.
- Use a light hand when folding the dry ingredients and butter into the egg whites to preserve the batter’s airiness.
- If topping with ganache, let the cake cool completely before drizzling.
- The cake keeps well for a few days, tightly covered, and actually improves after a night in the fridge.
Final Thoughts
The Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake, inspired by Suzanne Goin and brought to home bakers by Smitten Kitchen, is a dessert that deserves a place at your table for celebrations big and small. Its unique combination of flavors and textures sets it apart from more conventional cakes, making it a standout for those who appreciate depth and nuance in their desserts. Whether you’re baking for a special occasion or simply treating yourself, this is a cake that will be remembered—and requested again and again.
